A visit to the not so Black Isle 28 December 2022

Slavonian Grebe in winter plumage, library photo by Martin Jones

Today we led a field trip from the Grant Arms Hotel on Speyside north of Inverness to the Black Isle though today it was more of a White Isle as the ground was covered in snow. Arriving at RSPB Udale Bay on the north shore of the Black Isle, the tide was a long way out. However, even with this not ideal condition we were soon enjoying plenty of birds. The tidal channel just below the car park held Eurasian Wigeon, Eurasian Teal and Mallard, all allowing frame-filling views through the telescopes. On the mudflats beyond, we watched flocks of Northern Lapwings feeding and amongst them, three Golden Plover. In the distance at the tide's edge were hundreds of Common Shelduck, and smaller numbers of Ringed Plover and Dunlin. On the saltmarsh we picked out a Red Kite feeding on a dead goose; the kite was continually harassed by Carrion and Hooded Crows. Then a real surprise when a Kingfisher flew along the channel in front of us and luckily landed in view. Telescopes were quickly on the bird allowing our guests to enjoy some great views of this most colourful bird. In the fields behind us, we watched Fieldfares, Reed Buntings, Yellowhammers and Skylarks along with Pink-footed and Greylag Geese.

Moving along to the coast to the east we stopped again and scanned the glass-like waters of the sealoch and were amazed to see a huge flock of Greater Scaup. Our friend Dawn Balmer had the patience to count the ducks and recorded over 600 of these winter visitors, probably the largest flock we have ever seen in the UK. There was much more to see here with beautiful Long-tailed Ducks, Common Eider, Red-breasted Mergansers and lots of Slavonian Grebes. Back home in North Wales we are used to seeing very small numbers of Slavonian Grebes but here off the Black Isle, there were 26 of these diminutive black-and-white grebes. A common seal surfaced just offshore before we headed further east towards Cromarty.

Common Eider were a feature right along the north coast of the Black Isle

At Cromarty village we parked on the promenade and again scanned the flat, calm sea quickly picking out at least six winter-plumaged Black Guillemots. We also enjoyed more views of Long-tailed Duck, Common Eider, Red-breasted Mergansers and Shags offshore. On the beach, Rock Pipits flitted along the tideline looking for insects. We had a delicious pub lunch of traditional Cullen Skink at Cromarty which went down very well.

There were hundreds of Common Shelduck feeding at Udale Bay

We then returned to RSPB Udale Bay and what a different place it was from our earlier visit. The tide had risen very quickly and the whole bay was flooded pushing ducks and waders up on to the remaining marsh right opposite our viewpoint. The views of the birds were fantastic and we enjoyed comparing Curlew, Bar-tailed Godwit, Knot, Redshank, Dunlin, Ringed Plover and Lapwings all at close range. Suddenly a small bird of prey whizzed right in front of us, a Merlin! Luckily this pocket rocket of a raptor landed in a dead tree close by and we had super views through the telescopes before it dashed off again and flew past us out over the bay to be lost to view. Next up was a flock of Goldfinches which landed in a bare tree beside us and we were surprised to see a single Twite amongst them. A wonderful end to a bird-filled day! Huge thanks to the 22 people who joined us from the Grant Arms Hotel during the day.