Collared Scops Owl, photo by Phil Woollen
Nearly halfway through our Birdwatching Trips ‘Spoonful of Thailand’ tour, how time flies when you are having fun! Today was officially a travel day, as our group of eight enthusiastic birders transitioned from the lush wonders of Kaeng Krachan National Park to the renowned Khao Yai National Park, roughly two hours northeast of Bangkok. Six hours in a minibus might sound daunting for a crew itching to hit the field, but the day delivered far more birding than we could have hoped for. We needn’t have worried about missing out. The adventure began before dawn.
A Magical Pre-Dawn Start
Alarms rang early, with a 5:15 a.m. rendezvous outside the resort. The early risers amongst us scanned the darkness with our thermal imager and tuned our ears to the nocturnal chorus. Several heat signatures turned out to be roosting doves, but persistence paid off. We relocated the distant Collared Scops Owl that Phil and Marc had heard the previous morning. The thermal scope quickly pinpointed it, granting stunning views of our first Collared Scops Owl of the trip. As the sky lightened, the soundscape exploded, Large-tailed Nightjar, multiple Indian Thick-knees, and echoing calls of Red Junglefowl from the undergrowth. The pre-breakfast birding set an exhilarating tone.
After a hearty breakfast, we spent a leisurely couple of hours wandering the resort gardens. The results were outstanding, excellent photographic opportunities with standout species like Verditer Flycatcher, Brown-throated Sunbird, Green-billed Malkoha, and a classic Hoopoe. By the time we had to depart, we’d tallied an impressive 51 species right on the hotel grounds.
Roadside Surprises and Scenic Stops
The drive north produced several rewarding stops, some planned, others spontaneous. A quick pull-over to check a distant raptor proved inspired: an Indochinese Bushlark sang prominently and showed beautifully, while Richard’s and Paddyfield Pipits foraged nearby. Best of all, two superb Vinous-breasted Starlings (or Mynas) put in an appearance, a species right at the northern edge of its range, making it a particularly welcome sighting.
Indochinese Bushlark, photo by Phil Woollen
Lunch at a scenic riverside restaurant offered more than just food. The group enjoyed prolonged views of archerfish leaping to squirt water at insects, an unforgettable childhood dream realized from those old Brooke Bond tea cards. We even got to see it squirt water. Needlefish darted through the shallows, and colorful dragonflies added to the ambiance.
Further along, a planned stop for native Alexandrine Parakeets brought mixed emotions. We failed to connected with the birds, but we did find parakeets. These turned out to be the area’s first recorded Rose-ringed Parakeet, plus two hybrids (Rose-ringed × Alexandrine). Sadly, these introduced birds signal tough times ahead for the native Alexandrines.
A Spectacular Sunset Finale
As we neared our Khao Yai accommodation, the day built to an unforgettable climax. In the car park of the local fire station at sunset, dozens of Rose-breasted Parakeets streamed in to roost, their vibrant plumage glowing in the evening light. While we marveled at the parakeet spectacle, two majestic Great Hornbills courted openly at close range. Pure magic.
Then came the bats: enormous swarms of Wrinkle-lipped Bats poured overhead. Impossible to count precisely, we conservatively estimated at least half a million individuals in wave after wave of fluttering silhouettes.
An Asian Barred Owlet perched obligingly in the open, but the grand finale belonged to a massive Spot-bellied Eagle Owl. It emerged from a nearby cavity, settled on an exposed perch, and stared down at us with those iconic bushy “Groucho Marx” eyebrow, an image that will linger in our memories for years.
Spot-bellied Eagle-Owl, photo by Phil Woollen
What an extraordinary travel day! We capped it with a delicious supper at a local restaurant before retiring to bed, buzzing with excitement.
For what was meant to be a mostly transit day, we recorded 82 species. In less than a week, the tour list has climbed to an impressive 289 species. Tomorrow we dive into the trails of Khao Yai National Park where surely we’ll smash the 300-species barrier.
Happy owl watchers!
Roll on 5:30 a.m. Alarms are set and more birds are waiting!