The journey from Khao Yai to Chiang Mai marked the beginning of the next leg of our Spoonful of Thailand birdwatching tour. We departed from our base in Khao Yai, transferred to Bangkok airport, and caught a flight north to Chiang Mai, where we settled into our new resort just south of the city.
As always on a birding trip, there was still time for some rewarding observations before departure. A morning walk around the grounds of Nana Resort in Khao Yai produced excellent sightings: Brown Boobook, Asian Barred Owlet, and Long-tailed Nightjar were calling or perched, while Common Iora, Scaly-breasted Munia, White-rumped Munia, a handsome male Shikra, and several Black-naped Orioles greeted the dawn.
Our drive to the airport included one crucial stop. The target was the Rufous Limestone-babbler (Gypsophila calcicola), Thailand’s only true endemic bird species, with a tiny world population estimated in the low thousands. This large, chunky babbler is restricted to specific limestone hills in central Thailand. It sports rich rufous-brown plumage overall, a boldly black-streaked throat, and white-streaked back. It forages low to the ground, probing rocky crevices and cracks in a manner reminiscent of an accentor. Finding it can be notoriously difficult, often a real challenge to get the entire group onto views, but we stayed optimistic.
We arrived at the striking limestone landscape near Kaeng Koi, where dry broadleaved forest clings to dramatic limestone mountains strewn with huge boulders. We explored around a Buddhist temple nestled in this unique habitat. At first, only monkeys and squirrels were in evidence. Gradually, a few birds appeared: Blue Whistling Thrush, Black-naped Monarch, and Ashy Drongo. Things were looking quiet, and hope began to fade.
Then, suddenly, the shout rang out: Phil had spotted the babbler! A few brief glimpses rewarded some members of the group, but the bird quickly disappeared into cover. Frustrating!
Alan and Phil, who had already enjoyed brief views earlier, decided to climb higher up the mountain via a series of Buddhist “stairway to heaven” steps. The rest of us stayed lower, scanning patiently. After what felt like an eternity, Jay located a bird foraging at low level. Everyone rushed to get onto it, views were fleeting and often obscured by vegetation-draped rocks.
Rufous Limestone-babbler, photo by Phil Woollen
Just then, Alan and Phil came scrambling back down the slope, red-faced and panting from their descent. Slowly, the bird began showing better, then a second appeared. With superb teamwork and tracking, one individual finally ventured out onto the open path, offering prolonged, frame-filling views and allowing some outstanding photographs. The group was absolutely elated!
Marc is very happy with his photo!
With big smiles and a huge sense of achievement, we continued to the airport and flew north, arriving at our new base south of Chiang Mai just in time to start birding again. Right from the runway and transfer, we picked up new trip species, a Black-collared Starling.
Over the coming days, we’ll be exploring northern Thailand’s rich habitats. Many new species await, along with hopes for some truly special birds. Alarms are set for dawn, and we’re eager to get out early each morning. The excitement is building—what surprises will the north hold?
Airport snacks for our American guests, just to make a change from Thai food!
Just the two new species today (but included what a special one!), bringing our tour total to an impressive 329 species. Can we reach the magic 400? 🤔🤞