Green-tailed Sunbird, photo by Phil Woollen
Today was our first full day in the north, staying just south of Thailand’s second largest city, Chang Mai. The day kicked off with an unexpected pre-dawn delight: a stunning Litchi Lantern Bug (Pyrops candelaria), perched and glowing in the dark. Its erect, trunk-like extension and vibrant green-and-pink patterned body mesmerized the group before we even hit the trail, a perfect teaser for the biodiversity awaiting us.
By 6:30 a.m., we were on the road, heading west toward the majestic Doi Inthanon mountain range, Thailand’s “roof” and the country’s highest peak at 2,565 meters. This national park is a haven of rich biodiversity, with cascading waterfalls, misty cloud forests, and a refreshingly cool climate that felt like a welcome escape from the lowlands.
Our first stop was the park entrance for a quick comfort break, but excitement erupted almost immediately. A shout rang out: our first star bird, a gorgeous Red-billed Blue Magpie, strutting with its long tail and electric-blue plumage. Everyone had been eager to see this beauty! Nearby, a pristine White Wagtail of the leucopsis subspecies (often called the Chinese Wagtail) added to the early tally.
As we ascended the winding road, we marveled at the hillside farms, terraced rice paddies and coffee plantations—while hill tribe vendors sold their handicrafts at roadside stalls, drawing curious tourists.
We soon turned onto a quiet forest track, immersing ourselves in the tranquility of northern Thailand birding. It was challenging at first: necks craned skyward, straining for glimpses through the dense canopy. Fortunately, our guide Jay was a wizard with bird calls, pinpointing species and helping us piece together views as birds hopped through the vegetation. Highlights included the dapper Little Pied Flycatcher, the dazzling Silver-eared Mesia with its rainbow-like colors, the cryptic Hume’s Treecreeper clinging to trunks, and several Black-backed Sibias foraging actively.
Next came a spectacular waterfall—Siriphum Waterfall where two key targets awaited. After a careful scramble down to the riverside, we locked onto a brilliant White-capped Redstart, its vivid red belly, white cap, and bold pattern stealing the show as it bounced along the rocks. Moments later, a subtle movement revealed a fine female Plumbeous Water Redstart—her subtle gray body offset by that striking white-and-black tail, more reminiscent of a wheatear than a typical redstart. The roaring falls and rainbows in the spray made this stop unforgettable.
White-capped Redstart, photo by Phil Woollen
Lunch beckoned at the excellent Royal Project restaurant, where a delicious meal awaited. An ‘Eastern’ Buzzard soared overhead, while a mixed flock of white-eyes zipped through the trees.
Pushing higher, we reached the summit area. The action started right outside the public toilets, a quirky hotspot that drew groups of tourists inquisitive of what all the fuss was about and suddenly keen on “birding.” A flamboyant Silver-eared Laughingthrush kicked things off, followed by gaudy Mrs. Gould’s Sunbirds and gorgeous Green-tailed Sunbirds feeding at eye level amid various leaf warblers.
A delicious lunch to fuel the inner birder!
Birds poured in as a roving flock swept through. We eventually tore ourselves away and ventured down the boardwalk trail into pristine cloud forest, where every tree trunk dripped with mosses and lichens. Leaf warblers were everywhere: alongside the ubiquitous Yellow-browed Warbler, we enjoyed superb views of Ashy-throated, Blyth’s, and Buff-barred Leaf Warblers. A Yellow-bellied Fairy-Fantail darted close by, while an Eye-browed Thrush and Snowy-browed Flycatcher skulked in the undergrowth. The thermal imager proved invaluable again, locating two elusive Rufous-throated Partridges deep in the foliage, after some patient directing, everyone got satisfying looks at these high-altitude specialists. Another flock delivered Bar-throated Minlas and Rufous-winged Fulvettas at point-blank range. The intensity was exhilarating, pure adrenaline, but exhausting, so we descended slowly.
Yellow-bellied Fairy-Fantail, photo by Phil Woollen
A few roadside stops on the way down paid dividends: a flock of over 50 Ashy Woodpigeons exploded from the trees, spooked by an unseen predator; a Golden-throated Barbet (likely the intended species) perched openly, delivering its repetitive call; a Mountain Prinia crept at eye level; and a stunning male Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush provided a perfect finale.
As darkness settled, we enjoyed a wonderful dinner at a restaurant near the mountain base, briefly interrupted by the discovery of a beautiful Northern Tree Frog in the gents’ urinals!
Despite the high-altitude focus, we tallied an impressive 76 species for the day, with 39 new for the trip. The cumulative list now stands at a remarkable 378, that magic 400 milestone feels tantalizingly close. Surely it’s just a formality… or is it?
Tomorrow, we return to Doi Inthanon for another full day. In this magical corner of Thailand, who knows what further wonders await? Stay tuned!